Showing posts from 2016

A walking safari in Kenya

Scrambling up on the rocky outcrop was not easy. The stones were loose and crumbling, the bushes thick and unyielding. Most of all, I was alone. I kept telling myself that: I'm alone on a 4,000m mountain plateau in the heart of Africa, and I have wandered off the path. At the top, I sat down on a flat rock and enjoyed the spectacular view across the Aberdare national park. The sky was a miraculous deep blue, broken only by the silhouette of an Augur buzzard cruising along some invisible air current. I scanned the grasslands below: no elephants or lions to be seen. For many years, most tourism in Africa has had a very simple arc: you drive in a 4x4, bouncing up a track, then sit and watch a group of animals. Then you do it again. It is a model that evolved out of the colonial-era hunting experience, the guns being replaced with cameras (though not entirely – big game hunting is still going on). But Africa is changing, and fast. Old ways are being dropped. And nowhere more so than …